We’ve been coming to Hilton Head since our kids were little. Our son would tell you that some of his earliest memories are on the beaches of Hilton Head, collecting sea shells, looking for what the tide washed up, and even learning how to ride his bike.
He’s always been fascinated with the map of the island, the waterways and the tides and finding ways to explore, so it came as no surprise when he and his dad plotted an early morning expedition to cross the river that separates Burke’s Beach from Singleton Beach.
The plan was simple, first, check the tide chart ...
...then plot the best time to leave in order to cross the river at low tide.
The time they picked was 5:30am.
Before the sun comes up anywhere the world is dark, but in Hilton Head the nights are pitch black. There are no city lights anywhere, so it’s just you and the vast darkness and if you are lucky, you can see as far as the hand in front of your face.
5:30 came, and off they went.
On this particular morning they were lucky. It was a full moon and the beach was so well lit that that they could actually see their own shadow. They started their adventure, stopping several times to witness what Mother Nature had deposited on the beach during the nightly ebb and flow of the tides; cannonball jellies, sand dollars, horseshoe crabs, black tip sharks, you name it, you will find it that early in the morning.
Some of the creatures were still ALIVE...
This particular morning was magical, as they encountered a Loggerhead on her way back to the ocean after laying her eggs.
The trek to the river is a long one, especially if you have a headwind (we’ll talk about that later).
The trek from Shipyard, where our condo is located, takes you past Palmetto Dunes and thru a long stretch of quiet beach access points, dotted by the occasional early riser.
As the world wakes up the sea birds start to come out.
At some point along the way the sun has started to rise, which is of course an opportunity to stop and take a photo. Or two…
No two sunrises are ever the same.
When the tide is out the water is just about a foot deep. Take time here to explore and observe the river and the changing topography as the tide moves in and out. Just note, the river becomes impassible on foot during high tide
You can turn back here, or you can keep going, knowing that you will have to find a different way home if you wait too long and the river becomes too deep to cross.
You can also continue past Burke’s Beach, past Singleton Beach, thru Port Royal and to the point where the island takes a north by north west bend. Eventually you run out of bikeable
sand. And steam. Keep in mind it's a long way back, but it's very much worth the trip to experience a seemingly untouched portion of the island.
By now the sun was blazing and my husband and son were ready to move themselves into some shade for the trip home. You can bike back down the beach until you come to Folly Field Beach Park, or Driessen Park, or honestly, just any access point that allows you to find a bike path and head back south. Or you can just stay on the beach and ride, hopefully with a tailwind.
I’ve made the trip once, and stayed in bed once. As much as I loved it, I equally love hearing all the stories upon their return, because sometimes, the kid’s eye view is equally as memorable. ❤️
If you are looking for a more “adult” trip, I found this explanation of the beach markers on Trip Advisor many years ago and it gives a pretty good explanation of all beach access markers and what is available at each.
You can make the trip from North to South as this traveler describes, or just reverse your plan.
We tend to watch the wind direction and head out with the wind in our face as we go, and the wind at our back as we return. Or you can just venture inland and grab a bike path if the wind or sun becomes untenable .
If you bike from the Westin or Islander Beach Park to Land's End in Sea Pines, you will have traveled about 11 miles one way. You can do this on a beach bike in an hour and a half with the wind at your back, if you don't stop. But, it will be much more enjoyable if you make some stops and learn about the island from the beach, even if you don't make the whole trip. Let's take a hypothetical bike excursion. With the wind at our backs, and a couple of hours before low tide, we start at:
The Islander Beach Club is at beach marker 110 (11 miles from marker 1) and head south.
Within a few hundred feet we see a large complex of high rise, brown, wood buildings. This is Hilton Head Beach and Tennis. There is a bar beachside, and although this is private property they might not mind serving up a cool one or feeding you. There is entertainment in season.
At marker 105 (you have now traveled all of a half mile) is Folly Field Beach Park, described above. Not much to do here unless you need to use the restrooms.
Marker 102 is where the Dreissen Beach Park is located. If you have children with you, they can enjoy the playground or you can break out the sandwiches and sit at a picnic table.
At marker 98 is Burke's Beach Not much to do here except watch people crabbing in the estuarine creeks.
At marker 94A you might want to stop in at Coco's on the Beach for a cold one.
Marker 82 is the Marriott Hilton Head Resort & Spa in Palmetto Dunes Plantation.
The next hotel you will see is the Sonesta Resort at marker 71A, just past marker 72. This is also the Shipyard Beach Access Point. The poolside bar is strictly for guests, but the indoor bar is open to the public.
Now we have a stretch of about a mile before we hit the busiest part of the beach, starting at marker 61, where the Seacrest has an ocean front bar and food service.
Immediately past the Sea Crest at marker 59A is Coligny Beach, the island's most popular beach. Right next to it is the Holiday Inn's Tiki Hut, a popular beach bar that offers entertainment afternoons and evenings in season. The public is always welcome at the Tiki Hut.
Less than a mile further you will see the Marriott Grande Ocean a 5 Star timeshare resort.
Immediately next to it is the Alder Lane public beach, at marker 52A. Follow that access point to Marriott’s Loggerhead Bar and Grill, featuring fast casual fare and spectacular views from their Beach deck. They often have live entertainment.
At marker 38 is the popular Sea Pines Beach Club featuring Coast Ocean Front Dining, beachside bar and outdoor live entertainment. You can grab a quick snack, sandwich or drink at the Surfside Market.
The next mile and a half is a fabulous stretch of beach. It's very wide and lined with impressive mansions. Wildlife is ever present - Ospreys diving for their catch, Dolphins rising to breathe or slapping the water with their tails to stun fish, and entertaining Pelicans doing their ungainly crash dives. At marker 13 is Tower Beach. Not much reason to stop here unless you need to use the restrooms.
The next mile or so takes you around the "toe" of Hilton Head, a turn toward the West. The beach here is Calibogue Sound Beach and it also teems with wildlife. If the timing is right, you might see a great sunset here. The beach ends at a breakwater that slows the migration of sand into the mouth of Braddock Cove, the entrance to the South Beach marina. In the distance you can see the Harbour Town lighthouse, and on your right is Land's End, a South Beach community.
That's the end our trip. Since Sea Pines plantation is private, and, since going from the beach inland is technically trespassing, you might want to double back to where we can legally get back to the street. To do this you need to go back beyond the Sea Pines Beach Club, perhaps to Alder Lane at marker 53. I certainly would not advocate trespassing and bringing the bikes in at marker 4 if you are not staying in the plantation. By now the tide is coming in and you could, theoretically ride back along the leisure trails, where the wind is much less noticeable.
Wanna book your next trip to the island directly with us? Visit our direct booking site on Houfy.com
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